If your radiator is not heating properly (for instance, if the top is cold while lower down it is heated) there may be an airlock. This is one of the most common problems with a wet heating system. The cause of this is either corrosion within the system or dissolved air in the water, which produces gas that collects in the radiators.

Solution One

If the top of your radiator is not heating you “bleed” the radiators by opening the bleed valve with a bleeding key (available in your local DIY store). With your heating on, open the air-bleed valve at the top of the radiator to allow the air to escape. Air should hiss out if the heating is on, and water should rise through the radiator. Use a cloth to catch any escaping water. Close the valve as soon as hissing lessens and water starts to escape. As you do this, the system will be topped up again from the feed and expansion tank. The radiator should now heat evenly.

Solution Two

A cool patch in the centre of the radiator while the top and ends are warm means there are heavy deposits of corrosion at the bottom of the radiator restricting the circulation of water. For the confident DIY enthusiast, close inlet and lock shield valves, remove radiator, flush out, then refit or replace as necessary.

TAPS: dripping taps

Dripping taps are almost always due to a faulty tap washer.
Solution: You can simply fit a new tap, or replace the tap washer. Both jobs are within the remit of the competent DIY enthusiast with the right tools but there can be complications, so if in any doubt get the professionals in. If you’re buying new taps it’s important to replace like for like, to make the job as easy as possible.

BOILERS: caring for your boiler

The life of a boiler is just as long as spare parts remain available. Manufacturers are required to make parts available for ten years after a boiler has ceased production. Just how long parts remain in a working condition is, of course, indeterminate, but a boiler located in damp conditions is always likely to be prone to early component failure. Lack of regular servicing is also a factor in shortening the life of a boiler.

back-siphon
Sometimes if a plug of water is traveling down a drain it will act as a piston and lower the pressure behind it, pulling out the water in U-bends. This is known as a back-siphon.

down pipe
The soil pipe that rises vertically through a house from the drainage connecting toilets, baths and basins.

header
The small open cistern, usually referred to as a tank, that feeds the radiator water in central heating.

indirect tank
This is the hot water cylinder where the water for basins and baths is heated by a coil of piping inside the cylinder or tank. The coil of piping is connected to the central heating system and acts as a radiator.

plumbing
Because flue gases leaving a condensing boiler are cool, they normally produce a visible mist or plume of water vapour around the flue terminal itself. This is because the gases condense on contact with the outside air. It will be more noticeable under cold conditions, when even standard efficiency boilers can plume as well. It is not a problem and, in fact, it indicates that the boiler is working efficiently. However, consideration should be given to boiler and flue location prior to installation so that the plume will not be too close to neighboring properties or to windows, doors and paths regularly used in the winter.

pressure system
A water heating system for hot water flowing to baths and basins, which is sealed. Instead of the vent found in a header tank, a pressure vessel controls pressure. The advantage is that the pressure is high, which is good for showers. Current building regulations require that if fitting this system, the details are submitted as a formal application for approval.

riser
A vertical water pipe carrying the mains water supply.

u bend
A U-shaped pipe system, which maintains a residual amount of the waste water to prevent smells from the drains coming back into the house.

Anyone carrying out gas work must have a Gas Safe Register ID card. If not, they are breaking the law and putting you and your family at risk.

Gas safety is one of the most important factors in having a safe home and work place. The dangers that surround unsafe gas appliances are deadly serious. Poorly maintained, faulty or badly installed gas work leads to carbon monoxide poisoning, the effects of which can be fatal.

It’s not always easy to spot an illegal gas worker for a fully qualified Gas Safe registered engineer. Always ask to see your gas engineer’s Gas Safe Register ID card to make sure they are safe and legal.

The Gas Safe register is here to make sure you don’t fall into the trap of paying for illegal gas work with your health, and possibly your life.

Who runs Gas Safe Register?
Gas Safe Register is run by Capita Gas Registration and Ancillary Services Limited, a division of Capita Group Plc.

The Gas Safe Register make sure all 120,000 gas engineers on the register are gas safe and qualified to work with gas.

Gas Safe Register is the official gas registration body for Great Britain (GB) and Isle of Man, appointed by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) for Great Britain and HSWI for Isle of Man.

Gas Safe Register replaced CORGI as the gas registration body in GB on 1st April 2009. The HSE carried out a review of gas safety in 2006 which, after consultation with the gas industry, engineers and the public, led to the decision to change to a new gas registration scheme. The contract to run the new scheme was awarded to Capita and The Gas Safe Register launched Gas Safe Register. The sole focus of the register is on improving and maintaining gas safety to the highest standards.

http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/

• City & Guilds (6089) NVQ Level 2 and 3 in Mechanical Engineering Services (MES):
• Plumbing and City & Guilds (6129) Technical Certificate Level 2 Basic Plumbing Skills and Level 3 Plumbing Studies.

These qualifications cover areas of plumbing that include common plumbing principles and processes, hot and cold water systems, central heating pipework, sanitation and electrical supply.

If you are not already employed as a plumber’s apprentice, you can undertake the Level 2 and Level 3 Technical Certificates at a college or training centre. These are open to all ages but there is a lot of competition for places. Colleges and training centres set their own entry requirements which are likely to include an aptitude test.

These technical certificates cover theory, knowledge and some practical skills that allow you to move onto NVQ qualifications. NVQ qualifications are necessary to prove occupational competence as a plumber.

If you are studying for a C&G qualification, you should try and find an apprenticeship with plumber as soon as possible in order to undertake your NVQ. You technical certificate C&G can be completed on a home study basis.

Scotland

Separate technical certificates are not available in Scotland – the SVQ Level 3 is the main route into the industry.

Mature Apprenticeships

It is more challenging for an older person to enter into the plumbing and access the same training. There are limited pilot schemes in Wales and Scotland specifically for  mature applicants, but as yet none in England.

If already employed in the plumbing industry, you can immediately work towards:

• NVQ in Mechanical Engineering Services – Plumbing (6089) at Level 2 and
• NVQ/SVQ Mechanical Engineering Services – Plumbing (6089) at Level 3.

The NVQ assesses your practical skills as well as covering the technical certificates. It is usually available on a part-time or day-release basis through colleges and training centres.

The Level 3 NVQ/SVQ contains additional assessments for:

• Water Regulations
• Unvented Hot Water Systems

ACS gas safety – a necessary requirement for Corgi registration.